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If you’ve scrolled TikTok in the past couple of years, chances are you’ve seen Portuguese conservas—gourmet canned fish—making star turns on date-night platters and in artful packaging collages. From humble provisions to social media icons, conservas have come a long way. And it all started with war …
Napoleon and the Great Preserving Prize
In the late 1700s, Napoleon Bonaparte needed a way to keep his troops fed during his endless campaigns. He offered 12,000 francs to anyone who could crack the problem.
Enter Nicolas Appert, a French chef who in 1803 discovered that food sealed in glass jars and wax could last for months. Glass wasn’t exactly practical for marching armies, though, and in 1810 Englishman Peter Durand patented the use of cans instead.
By 1853, canning had spread to Portugal, thanks to Georges Hénrique, a Frenchman who recognised the riches of Portugal’s fish-filled waters. Factories quickly sprang up along the coast, providing vital income in tough times and embedding canned seafood—and particularly the sardine!—into Portuguese culture.
The Highest Highs, the Lowest Lows
World War II supercharged the industry. As a neutral nation, Portugal supplied both Allied and Axis troops with cans of sardines and mackerel. By the mid-20th century, 152 factories churned out 34,000 tons a year, making Portugal a global leader in canned fish.
But trouble loomed. EU membership raised labour costs, overfishing strained stocks, and fewer soldiers meant fewer mouths to feed. By the 1980s, the once-proud industry was fading fast.
The TikTok Revolution
Enter stage left: TikTok. In 2022, Bay Area chef Ali Hooke went viral with her “tinned fish date nights”—platters of chorizo sardines, char-grilled octopus, and fried mussels paired with natural wine. Her videos racked up millions of views, and suddenly canned seafood was chic again.
Today, Lisbon and Porto’s gourmet shops proudly showcase boutique brands, their dazzling packaging rivalled only by the quality inside. Locals and tourists alike are hooked. Restaurants like Can The Can and the hole-in-the-wall Sol e Pesca (featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations) keep the conservas culture alive in delicious style.
Curious?
Want to see what the Portuguese conservas fuss is about? Start with sardine or cavala fillets in olive oil, or maybe spicy anchovies. Enjoy them on fresh bread—or straight from the can if you can’t wait.
For pairing, go classic with a Portuguese Vinho Verde, a crisp cava, or even a fine port.
And of course, we recommend our Briosa Gourmet range from Figueira da Foz. Supplied directly from the Atlantic, Briosa’s offering includes anchovies, sardines, mackerel, and their superb canned pâtés—all in packaging as beautiful as the flavours inside.
